Missive from the Congo 003

Originally posted on 04 Nov 2006 19:33:56 +0000 (GMT)

Potholes on a main artery
in Kisangani

As promised last week, this week’s missive with cover the issue of getting around Kisangani. Kisangani is a town with a population of approximately somewhere between 650,000 and 750,000 people. It is bordered on the south side by the Congo River and on the north-west by the Tchopo River. It is relatively compact town covering perhaps 40 square kilometres. First the roads. As mentioned in my first missive, paved roads are the exception. There are only a few main roads that are paved and that was probably 20-30 years ago. There are sections that are heavily cratered (the holes are too big to be potholes). The photo is of one section in the heart of downtown. Needless to say there is a lot of bobbing and weaving by all parties to try and have as smooth a ride as possible. It’s a challenge especially at night. The secondary roads are much worse. Some are impassable to cars and truck.

Toleka with passenger

The main form of transportation in Kisangani is the bicycle, with motorcycles coming second place. There is no public transit as we would know it. No buses or taxis. There are, however, tolekas. These are bicycles that are modified and reinforced to carry a passenger. They are everywhere. They move people from point to point in town and even over fairly long distances such as the airport which is about 15 km out of town. The cost is a pittance. From Canada House to the HQ, which is a 2 km ride, would cost approximately 25 cents. Everybody uses them, often while carrying bags, groceries, children, or just about anything else. The most surprising site is to see the women in dresses riding side-saddle.

Riding side-saddle on a toleka

Finally, crossing the Congo River. There is no bridge and the ferry broke down years ago. So you cross the river in a pirogue (canoe). They appear to be quite large and filled to the gunwales with people and stuff. So they are heavily laden. Further the current is quite fast so they drift downstream quite a bit while crossing. It’s kind of funny actually but it must be extremely hard work. I am heading back to Kinshasa this week for my arrival training.

Crossing the Congo River

Have a good week.

John